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In Russia, Tokaji wine became closely associated with the
Romanov dynasty. Customers included Peter the Great,
Catherine the Great, and Empress Elisabeth.
The age-long relationship between the Russian Imperial
Court and the Tokaji wine started in 1707 in Warsaw, when
Peter the Great was introduced to it by Prince Rákoczi II
while they were negociating a treaty. Rákoczi continued to
send gifts of Tokaji. Later, in 1711, Peter the Great stated
after a meeting with Rákoczi: "Until now I haven´t been
defeated by anyone or anything, but Tokaji wine defeated
me last evening."
In 1714 he sent Captain Paraskevic, descending from a
Greek merchant family, and Sergeant Korsakov to Hungary,
to trade furs amounting to 10,000 Rubles in 300 barrels of
Tokaji wine. On their way back indeed, half of it has been
confiscated by Polish authorities, due to customs
regulations ...
After his rebellion against the Hapsburg dynasty failed in
1711, Rákóczi has been banned. His vineyards, and those
of other rebels, have been given to Habsburg-loyal persons.
Romanov dynasty. Customers included Peter the Great,
Catherine the Great, and Empress Elisabeth.
The age-long relationship between the Russian Imperial
Court and the Tokaji wine started in 1707 in Warsaw, when
Peter the Great was introduced to it by Prince Rákoczi II
while they were negociating a treaty. Rákoczi continued to
send gifts of Tokaji. Later, in 1711, Peter the Great stated
after a meeting with Rákoczi: "Until now I haven´t been
defeated by anyone or anything, but Tokaji wine defeated
me last evening."
In 1714 he sent Captain Paraskevic, descending from a
Greek merchant family, and Sergeant Korsakov to Hungary,
to trade furs amounting to 10,000 Rubles in 300 barrels of
Tokaji wine. On their way back indeed, half of it has been
confiscated by Polish authorities, due to customs
regulations ...
After his rebellion against the Hapsburg dynasty failed in
1711, Rákóczi has been banned. His vineyards, and those
of other rebels, have been given to Habsburg-loyal persons.
Tsarina Anna Ivanovna (1693-1740).
Founder of the Imperial Wine Purveyors'
Comission in Tokaj
Founder of the Imperial Wine Purveyors'
Comission in Tokaj
Cut and engraved glass wine
goblets from the Tsar´s Court
(21cm high), period of Nicholas II,
1910´s
Similar glasses with the
monogram “H” “II” “A” (Nicholas
and Alexandra), but with no gilt
were made for palace use during
the World War I (1914-1917),
when gilding was considered
inappropriate. Reproduced
palace glass from the period of
Elizabeth Petrovna (Elizabeth I)
goblets from the Tsar´s Court
(21cm high), period of Nicholas II,
1910´s
Similar glasses with the
monogram “H” “II” “A” (Nicholas
and Alexandra), but with no gilt
were made for palace use during
the World War I (1914-1917),
when gilding was considered
inappropriate. Reproduced
palace glass from the period of
Elizabeth Petrovna (Elizabeth I)
| Empress Elisabeth (1709-1762) |
Empress Elisabeth (1709-
1762) once ordered 375
barrels of Tokaji wine, and
adds as a postscript to the
order form (dated 8
November 1745):
„And if there is any
opportunity at all of doing this,
please send me at least three
Antals (small barrels of ca. 75
litres), as I cannot obtain
these here anywhere, and you
know how impossible it is for
me to do without this wine."
1762) once ordered 375
barrels of Tokaji wine, and
adds as a postscript to the
order form (dated 8
November 1745):
„And if there is any
opportunity at all of doing this,
please send me at least three
Antals (small barrels of ca. 75
litres), as I cannot obtain
these here anywhere, and you
know how impossible it is for
me to do without this wine."
But Tokaji wine deliveries to Russia still stalled. That´s why, in 1733, Empress Anna Ivanovna
started to run a small colony in Tokaj, that they called the Wine Purveyors’ Commission, to
ensure a steady supply of the excellent wine. Lieutenant-Colonel Fjodor Vishnyevskij has
been assigned to administrate the commission. Until 1798, the Commission, locally known
as "Russian colony", had a staff of 35 up to 40 persons. In 1745, Empress Elisabeth
instructed Vishnyevskij to buy only the best wines, and to buy only directly from the producers,
since she knew about wine manipulations by some merchants. In this time, the Imperial
Court ordered up to 750 Antal-barrels (each containing 75 liters) per year, spending
impressive 10% (!) of the Court´s budget for Tokaji.
The Commission bought wines, but also aszú grapes for vinification. It was forbidden to
foreigners to buy aszú grapes (to prevent manipulations). With this and other failures to
observe regulations regarding foreign nationals, Vishnyevskij found himself frequently in
disputes with the Hungarian Chamber and the Zemplén County.
To save expenses, Vishnyevskij was ordered to rent vineyards and cellars, and to employ
workers and winemakers, in order to produce own Tokaji wines. Initially, wines have been
bought too expensive. Generally, the expenses for the Commission have been
underestimated and were much higher than expected. Anna Leopoldovna, who took the
regency for her minor son Ivan VI, even stopped all the activities of the Commission, in 1740.
In this period, the Greek merchants Atanas Paraskevic and Diamond Altenzsi supplied the
Tokaji wines to the Imperial Court, until the Commission continued to operate in 1744.
Although the Commission started renting vineyards on longterm from 1746 on, they never
succeeded buying some, due to restrictions by the Hungarian law. Between the vineyards,
which have been rented by the Imperial Russian Court, were Zsoltáros (today there is the
Donáth vineyard in this tract), Szappanos, Melegmáj and Veres, all of them near Tokaj.
Vishnyevskij died in Tokaj in 1749. After him, Major Zsolobow, Major Rarog and finally Captain
Sawa Gorew directed the Commission with seat in Bodrogkeresztúr.
started to run a small colony in Tokaj, that they called the Wine Purveyors’ Commission, to
ensure a steady supply of the excellent wine. Lieutenant-Colonel Fjodor Vishnyevskij has
been assigned to administrate the commission. Until 1798, the Commission, locally known
as "Russian colony", had a staff of 35 up to 40 persons. In 1745, Empress Elisabeth
instructed Vishnyevskij to buy only the best wines, and to buy only directly from the producers,
since she knew about wine manipulations by some merchants. In this time, the Imperial
Court ordered up to 750 Antal-barrels (each containing 75 liters) per year, spending
impressive 10% (!) of the Court´s budget for Tokaji.
The Commission bought wines, but also aszú grapes for vinification. It was forbidden to
foreigners to buy aszú grapes (to prevent manipulations). With this and other failures to
observe regulations regarding foreign nationals, Vishnyevskij found himself frequently in
disputes with the Hungarian Chamber and the Zemplén County.
To save expenses, Vishnyevskij was ordered to rent vineyards and cellars, and to employ
workers and winemakers, in order to produce own Tokaji wines. Initially, wines have been
bought too expensive. Generally, the expenses for the Commission have been
underestimated and were much higher than expected. Anna Leopoldovna, who took the
regency for her minor son Ivan VI, even stopped all the activities of the Commission, in 1740.
In this period, the Greek merchants Atanas Paraskevic and Diamond Altenzsi supplied the
Tokaji wines to the Imperial Court, until the Commission continued to operate in 1744.
Although the Commission started renting vineyards on longterm from 1746 on, they never
succeeded buying some, due to restrictions by the Hungarian law. Between the vineyards,
which have been rented by the Imperial Russian Court, were Zsoltáros (today there is the
Donáth vineyard in this tract), Szappanos, Melegmáj and Veres, all of them near Tokaj.
Vishnyevskij died in Tokaj in 1749. After him, Major Zsolobow, Major Rarog and finally Captain
Sawa Gorew directed the Commission with seat in Bodrogkeresztúr.
Tsar Peter I the Great (1672-1725).
He tried several times to buy
vineyards in Tokaj
He tried several times to buy
vineyards in Tokaj
Most shipments to St. Petersburg traveled by sea via
Gdánsk, rather than overland. Under Catherine the
Great (1729-1796) there was a special division of
Cossacks whose duty it was to escort the deliveries of
wine to the Court in St. Petersburg. Unfortunately,
neither the Hungarian authorities, nor the Court of
Vienna recognized the importance of the Russian Wine
Purveyors' Commission, and often constrained the work
of the Commission. Meanwhile, they did not buy only
wine, but also textiles and other equipment for the
Tsarist army. They paid higher salaries and higher
prices for the wine. Local lairds, discontented about it,
had to adapt and raise their payments too. On the other
hand, Austria started to promote the export of their own
wines, although they were from minor quality.
In 1752, a decade-long legal dispute started about
charges on vineyards and real estates. At the end, Tsar
Paul I closed the Commission in January 1798 and
ordered the entire staff back to Russia.
Gdánsk, rather than overland. Under Catherine the
Great (1729-1796) there was a special division of
Cossacks whose duty it was to escort the deliveries of
wine to the Court in St. Petersburg. Unfortunately,
neither the Hungarian authorities, nor the Court of
Vienna recognized the importance of the Russian Wine
Purveyors' Commission, and often constrained the work
of the Commission. Meanwhile, they did not buy only
wine, but also textiles and other equipment for the
Tsarist army. They paid higher salaries and higher
prices for the wine. Local lairds, discontented about it,
had to adapt and raise their payments too. On the other
hand, Austria started to promote the export of their own
wines, although they were from minor quality.
In 1752, a decade-long legal dispute started about
charges on vineyards and real estates. At the end, Tsar
Paul I closed the Commission in January 1798 and
ordered the entire staff back to Russia.
Engraved glass goblet from the Imperial Court, from the late 18th
century, 24cm high.
On a circular foot, with faceted baluster stem, the cylindrical body
engraved with the crowned cypher of Empress Catherine II and a
crowned Imperial double-headed eagle flanked by foliate sprays.
century, 24cm high.
On a circular foot, with faceted baluster stem, the cylindrical body
engraved with the crowned cypher of Empress Catherine II and a
crowned Imperial double-headed eagle flanked by foliate sprays.
| Glass wine goblet, period of Empress Elisabeth (mid-18th century) |
Peter the Great loved the Tokaji so much, that he thought about making a similar wine, somewhere
in Russia. That´s probably why grape varieties came to be grown in Astrakhan. Later, in the 1780´s,
Hegyalja grape varieties have been transplanted to Crimea, with the thought of imitating Tokaji. Still
today, there comes a Tokaji-style fortified wine, using Furmint grape variety, from the Massandra
winery (founded in 1894) at the Crimea peninsula.
In 1716, it was Grigoriev Savva, who was sent to buy Tokaji. The successors of Peter the Great,
Catherine I and Peter II, obtained customs benefits from the Austrian Court for Tokaji wine deliveries
to Russia. In 1729, Habsburg Emperor Joseph I granted a significant tariff reduction to Russia. This
resulted in an increasing interest in the Tokaji also within Vienna´s noble society ...
in Russia. That´s probably why grape varieties came to be grown in Astrakhan. Later, in the 1780´s,
Hegyalja grape varieties have been transplanted to Crimea, with the thought of imitating Tokaji. Still
today, there comes a Tokaji-style fortified wine, using Furmint grape variety, from the Massandra
winery (founded in 1894) at the Crimea peninsula.
In 1716, it was Grigoriev Savva, who was sent to buy Tokaji. The successors of Peter the Great,
Catherine I and Peter II, obtained customs benefits from the Austrian Court for Tokaji wine deliveries
to Russia. In 1729, Habsburg Emperor Joseph I granted a significant tariff reduction to Russia. This
resulted in an increasing interest in the Tokaji also within Vienna´s noble society ...
Ferenc Rákoczi II (1676-1735), Prince of Transylvania.
Tokaji wine was his most important diplomatic weapon. He didn´t introduce it only to Peter
the Great, but also to the Prussian KIng, and the French King Louis XIV. After his rebellion
failed, he went into exile to Paris in 1713, where he was a welcome guest in Versailles.
Louis XIV even paid a pension to the exile.
Tokaji wine was his most important diplomatic weapon. He didn´t introduce it only to Peter
the Great, but also to the Prussian KIng, and the French King Louis XIV. After his rebellion
failed, he went into exile to Paris in 1713, where he was a welcome guest in Versailles.
Louis XIV even paid a pension to the exile.